UNDERGROUND SECTION

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Nelson Nemo : Bridging Architecture and Fashion

Born from a lifelong love affair with creativity, Nelson's journey into fashion was a natural evolution of his artistic pursuits. From the tender age of childhood, he immersed himself in the realms of drawing, painting, and nurturing a profound connection to the world of artistic expression. However, it wasn't until recent years that his fascination with fashion blossomed into a fervent passion, fueled by a desire to create garments that resonated with his unique sense of style.

"I only wanted to sew clothes for myself... There was no brand that made everything I wanted to wear."

Nelson reflects, highlighting the catalyst behind the inception of his brand. Rooted in a quest for self-expression and authenticity, his vision for the brand was clear from the outset—to curate a collection that epitomized his personal taste and ethos.

How would you describe the overall style and aesthetic of your brand?

The entire aesthetic of my brand is heavily inspired by Blob Architecture. This architectural style is all about the use of organic, round, and amorphous shapes. Sustainability also plays a major role. I wanted to implement this concept in the fashion world. That's why I was initially called “Blob Atelier”. Almost all of my projects, whether fashion or art, adhere to the blob influence. For example, almost all of my trouser pockets are circular. I would call the style of my clothes elevated streetwear. It is extraordinary clothing that you can still wear every day.

Jacket made from Heavy Vintage Military Bags.

Selvedge Denim with Sashiko Stitching and Extended Beltloops.

Can you walk us through the process of creating a new collection, from conceptualization to the final product ?

I'm not working on collections yet. At the moment I'm just creating individual pieces. I'm mainly trying to reinterpret details that are typical of clothing. Good examples of this are my “Beltloop Denim”, where I have attached the beltloops all the way down the pants. I have a sketchbook with lots of sketches. I let them work on me for a while. After a long period of reflection, I then decide on my next project and start making it. Music also plays a big role in the production process. When the music is loud, I can focus best on sewing and finish my work the fastest.

Beltloop Denim.

How do you stay attuned to current fashion trends while also maintaining the unique identity and signature style of your brand?

I had a clear vision ever since I started making clothes : implement the blob aesthetic in fashion. That's why trends can't influence me too much. The biggest inspiration for trends are probably the cuts of my pieces, although they are also unique. My fashion and my aesthetic is timeless, although it is still very extraordinary.

What challenges have you faced in the fashion industry, and how have you overcome them?

I have set myself the standard of only producing in the EU. The production prices are therefore very high for an up-and-coming brand. It was therefore important to find the right community that values ethics and attention to detail. It was also difficult to get started in the fashion world as I didn't have any contact with other creatives at the beginning. There were few people around me who were really deeply interested in fashion. Now I exchange ideas with other creatives, which is super important and inspiring.

Could you highlight any collaborations or partnerships that have been particularly impactful for your brand, and how they have contributed to its growth and visibility?

The most important collaboration of my brand was with Drew Joiner. I sent Drew a pair of my pants, which he presented in a video. That gave my brand the go-ahead. That was a huge honor for me. I have been following Drew for many years and he has shaped my understanding and love of fashion. He also really started my love for denim. I am super grateful for the opportunity he has given me.

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Can you share any upcoming projects that your brand is excited about?

My plan for the future is to officially release some of my 1 of 1 pieces. My biggest passion remains pants but I want to start selling other pieces like jackets or shirts. I'm also learning how to make jewelry. Selling my own jewelry would also be a big dream.

Looking ahead, what is your vision for the future of your brand, and how do you plan to continue evolving and adapting in an ever-changing industry landscape?

“I'm still at the very beginning but my vision is clear. My brand aesthetic won't change much though. As I've only been sewing for a year, my craftsmanship in particular will continue to develop a lot as I learn very quickly. Quality and pattern making will improve.”

EXTENDED WAISTBANDS PANTS

BUBBLE JACKET

FRANKENSTEIN DENIM

SASHIKO STITCH DENIM

What is your definition of the Underground?

Underground means maximum creativity for me. There is not yet a large community to satisfy. So underground means trying out new things and a completely free development of ideas and fantasies. You have to be individual and special. But underground is also associated with motivation and hope, as you naturally hope to make it big. You have to look for every opportunity out there.”